10-page story on Tennessee’s Smoky Mountains: Rising along the eastern flank of Tennessee, the Great Smoky Mountains are known for their hiking trails, waterfalls and wild bears – this is, after all, the most naturally biodiverse pocket in the US. But a road trip through its old-growth forests reveals a more humane story. Here, tight-knit communities are preserving ancient Appalchian crafts and traditions, from pottery and broom carving to folk dancing, all alongside some of America’s most bombastic resort towns.